Attaché Dispatches No. 3

Welcome to Issue 3 of Attaché Dispatches. We’re continuing with the destination-centric format, for no other reason than my travels lining up with this newsletter’s publication schedule. So if you have a strong feeling about this direction of travel (oh, you), please let me know by replying to this email. As always, feel free to forward this latest missive to anyone you think might enjoy it. And if you’re the recipient of aforementioned forward, don’t forget to subscribe - it’s free and you can unsubscribe at any time.

Spain is a country that I am inexorably drawn to. Great weather, amazing food, enviable lifestyle. Recently I visited Sevilla and Granada, both in Andalusia in southern Spain. Sevilla (or Seville as we English speakers sometimes refer to it) is Andalusia’s capital and is home to one of the most magnificent cathedrals in Spain - the largest Catholic cathedral in the world, in fact. Built on the site of the Almohad mosque (a legacy of Spain’s moorish history, a chapter of Spain’s existence I am completely fascinated by), the cathedral retains many features of the original mosque including the minaret-inspired Giralda bell tower. This Muslim-Christian overlap is apparent all over Andalusia, but nowhere is it more profound and breathtaking than the Alhambra.

I say this without hyperbole - the Alhambra, a sprawling palace and fortress atop a ridge overlooking Granada, is one of the most beautiful experiences I’ve ever had. I arrived with almost zero expectation or background. But even on a dull winter’s day, the entire place shimmered. An impressive and imposing structure to be sure, for me the beauty lies in the detail. A wall that from a distance appears textured and desiccated is, on closer examination, an intricately carved wall of ancient islamic text. The motifs etched in stone archways mimic the symmetry found in nature. Windows are oriented to scatter sunlight in mesmerising patterns across the walls. I cannot overstate how much this place and this experience moved me. It will be a place I return to regularly.

The Alhambra was worth the trip alone but Andalusia is captivating as a region and very easy to get to from much of Europe - I strongly encourage you to visit. I flew into Seville Airport (SVQ) and then took the train to Granada, an easy 2.5 hour journey that cost around 40 Euros. From Granada I took the excellent bus service from the city’s bus station (which is just outside of town and required a taxi to reach) right to Malaga airport (AGP). Is it the best airport in Spain? I think it might be. Light, airy, efficient, and absolutely huge. Unlike Madrid airport, which is my personal purgatory.

Order a drink, get some food - Being given a small plate of something with your drink is a fairly common occurrence in Spain. Some olives, maybe. Or a small plate of chorizo. But in Granada, it’s on another level. Full, hearty plates of local fare flung at you with every round of drinks. Jamón asado (oven roasted pork), rich stews served with fries and slices of bread to mop up the sauce. And it just keeps coming. The general etiquette is to not take the piss, and call timeout when you’ve had a decent amount of food. But it’s a tradition I can absolutely get behind. Standing at the crowded bar at Bar Ávila Tapas on a busy Friday night was an unforgettable experience.

Food Markets in Spain - Sevilla and Granada, like many cities in Spain, have glorious food markets. Usually housed in old, ornate wrought iron edifices, the market in Sevilla, Mercado de Triana, is actually relatively new, built in 2001. The market in Granada, Mercado de San Agustín, is often filled with locals catching up after work or on the weekends, giving it a lively, convivial atmosphere. But regardless of their age or location, food markets in Spain rarely fail to yield deliciousness. Indeed they are my go-to for a quick bite (and perhaps a cheeky tipple).

Affordable Spain - I’m consistently flabbergasted by how affordable Spain is to visit. Not so much the “getting there” part, that’s obviously relative to where you’re coming from. But existing while you’re there is incredibly good value. Eating, drinking, getting around - all deliciously affordable, at least when compared to the UK and US.

Use Your AirPods with Airplane IFE - I’ve had one of these magical little devices for a few years now. But it wasn’t until I forgot to pack it on this recent trip, that I realised how indispensable it is. The Twelve South AirFly is a little dongle that plugs into the headset jack on airplane IFE systems (or anything else with a headphone jack) and broadcasts the audio over bluetooth. No longer are you confined to crappy disposable airline headphones - pair your AirPods or your noise-cancelling headphones. No more tinny airplane audio.

Next episode - As you read this we’ll be wrapping up our latest shoot. It’s a story I’ve wanted to tell for a long time - and I’m hoping we can do it justice. I look forward to sharing it with you. As always, Patreon subscribers will see it first. And the good news is, we head back out on the road in less than 10 days for another shoot! So stay tuned and get those YouTube notifications turned on.

A travel read I enjoyed recently - “Why Japan has such good railways” by Matthew Bornholt & Benedict Springbett. If you’ve ever been on a Japanese train, you’ll know they operate on a plane (ha) so far beyond our own quotidien rail systems that it’s like being in the future. Or a parallel dimension. Or just somewhere where things are much, much better. This essay is a fascinating exploration of just WHY Japanese railways are so much better than ours. And just as importantly, how we can replicate that success here in the West.

📚 Got a travel read you think I and the Attaché community would enjoy? Reply to this email and let me know!

I’m still not sure how I feel about destination-centric newsletters but here we are. You guys seem to be opening, reading, clicking, and replying - all of which are more than I can hope for. But I remain open to and encouraging of your feedback, suggestions, travel tips, and recipe suggestions. So, as always, hit the reply button and let me know what’s on your mind.

Until next time…